Order The Botanist and the Vintner: How Wine Was Saved for the World

For 20 years in the mid-1800s phylloxera threatened the wine industry in Europe

Many botanists, entomologists and vintners played a role in identifying the phylloxera, studying its life cycle and devising a means to defeat it. Although he doesn't get much credit in this book, T. V. Munson in the US was crucial in identifying louse resistant vines. Planchon, a professor at the prestigious Montpellier School of Pharmacy, gets credit for identifying the phylloxera aphid as the cause and for tracing its origins to the States.

The book is wonderful in describing Planchon's efforts to convince French growers and scientists that the louse was responsible. It also is wonderful at tracing the differing responses of wine regions as they became infest with the louse.

The French government offered a large cash prize for a solution to the problem; "solutions" included exorcism, mesmerism, "electrical commotions", marching bands, and a marvelous "beating wheelbarrow," with hammers that would pound the soil. Serious consideration was given to an even more absurd solution: make wine from American grapes. The country-life correspondent for Le Temps, after attending a half-dozen tastings of American wines, reported that "not one of those who took part had the courage to empty his glass."

Nonetheless, by grafting French vines on American roots, the louse was defeated. Despite my carping about how Munson is portrayed, this is an excellent wine history.

Robert C. Ross 2008Get more detail about The Botanist and the Vintner: How Wine Was Saved for the World.